Max Wine Gallery Visit 3

Max Wine Gallery Visit 3

Bordeaux, France

28-12-2010



Welcome back everyone to another installment of the series of Bordeaux tastings from the Max Wine Gallery.  So far we have covered Value selections in the 1^st article and focused on some of the chateau of the Right Bank in the 2^nd edition.  And from a recent posting you were able

to relive the wonderful culinary experience of La Tupina and Christmas dinner.  So it is only appropriate that we move along in geographical proximity and ferry ourselves across the Gironde to the Left Bank. 

As with the previous installments fashion, this article is dedicated strictly to 5 wines from the Left Bank, the Haut-Medoc.  To help you understand the area a bit I have added the educational information to the resource area.  Simply select the Bordeaux wine region link and it will take you to this page.  Here you can learn a bit about what makes the Left Bank so famous.  Also, like with the Right Bank posting, I have gone and added the Cabernet Sauvignon varietal description to that section of the resources bar.  Remember, the Haut-Medoc is Cabernet country.  Of the 5 wines discussed here I tried to make it as widespread as possible so as to cover the various communes of the Haut-Medoc.  I am happy to report that I was able to arrange the wines so that each of the 4 major communes is represented.  Let us begin…

1) Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux 2006 Margaux

This is the 2^nd label of the famous Chateau Margaux.  With every top estate that bottles a 2^nd wine, this is the fruit that comes from the younger

vines as well as any barrels not selected for the Grand Vin.  Still, at over $100 a bottle it is not quite a value wine, although compared to the Grand Vin it is.

The wine is Starbright with a clear ruby red color which is firmly concentrated.  The wine is youthful, with a minor variation beginning to form on the rim.  The tears are medium plus and they have noticeable staining to them.

The nose of the wine is a bit muted at this point in evolution, with a mellow intensity.  Even with a little swirling and warmth from the hand it took some work to wake her up.  Eventually some tart dark red fruits emerged, a bit of leathery tones and very mild earth tones. 

The palate of the wine was easy drinking and smooth, but still a bit wound up and waiting for the flavors to unravel.  May be a good one to revisit in a year or two and re-taste.

88 Points Wine Spectator

2) Chateau Leoville Barton 2006 Saint Julien



Always a highly acclaimed chateau, and one of the best value wines for the quality you receive.  In 2009, this bottle was the #64 Wine of the Year by the reviewers at Wine Spectator and received 94 Points.

The wine is Starbright with a clear deep garnet color and a firm concentration.  The rim variation is light, but does noticeably fade to a lighter ruby red at the edge.  The tears are moderate in their viscosity and do have some staining.

The nose has a medium intensity with great balance.  There are red fruits of cherries and raspberries set off against some chocolate and dark earth tones.  The aromas seem to have a warm tone to them. 

The palate has great structure and shows why it is so highly regarded.  The flavors are confirmed and build up to a higher intensity and overall a warm and refined display.  The tannins are firm but polished, and the wine is beginning to show quite well in its youth.

94 Points Wine Spectator

3) Chateau Leoville Las Cases 2006 Saint Julien

Here is another example of the Saint Julien commune, and a house that is indeed very close to the previous wine Leoville Barton.  Las Cases is classified as a 2^nd Growth as well, and can be in the consideration of a

‘Super Second.’

The wine has a clear Daybright garnet color with a firm medium plus concentration, still with some transparency tones to it.  The rim variation is very minimal and the wine has great youthful visual effects to it.  The tears have a concentrated viscosity and strong staining quality to them.

The nose has a medium intensity and shows great finesse of balance.  The fresh black fruits are set against a subtly hint of smoke and violets, accented by a loose dark earth element that is lingers on the back end.

The palate is ripe with dried fruits of red currants and cherries, all of which are balanced with the accents of the toasty oak notes.  The earth is warm with the definite loose pebbly minerality apparent.  The wine is dry with balanced tannins and acids; the alcohol is finely integrated as well.  The finish is long and persistent, again a wine of great structure and artistically crafted.

95 Points Wine Spectator

4) Chateau Lynch Bages Pauillac 2006

Here is a perfect example of a winery that consistently outperforms its 1855 classification.  Originally ranked as a 5^th Growth, the lowest of the

ranking, today due to many improvements over the years Chateau Lynch Bages is seen as a wine of great structure and appeal.  In the commune where the 1^st Growths dominate and the prices are astronomical, Lynch

Bages is a relatively good price to try and experience the power that a Pauillac wine can deliver.

I am sad to report that the bottle that the sample was poured from was extremely flawed due to over-exposure to oxygen; the bottle had been open for too long.  I brought this to the attention of the staff on hand, and was refunded the cost of the taste, but a new taste out of a new bottle was not offered.  It was disappointing in that I genuinely believe the women working there, although also seeming to be fairly young (about 30), did not perceive me as one who knew about wines.  A shame that still I have to continue to hurdle over this obstacle.  What is even more frustrating is that I tasted this wine on Dec 24^th, and the same bottle sat until my visit on the 28^th when another person pointed out the same

problem.  It was then promptly replaced for them.  A huge blemish from my perspective on the Max Wine Gallery.

92 Points Wine Spectator

5) Chateau Cos d’Estournel Saint Estephe 2006

And so with the finally wine of this report we had made our way to the northernmost commune of the Haut-Medoc, Saint Estephe.  This region has the fewest amount of houses that are classified, but has some good choices of chateau nonetheless.  One of which is Chateau Cos d’Estournel, one of two 2^nd Growths and definitely considered a ‘Super

Second.’  This house is hands down the most prestigious of all the houses in Saint Estephe.

The wine has a clear garnet color with a slightly muted brightness to it.  The rim is very youthful and only beginning to show any variation while the tears have a definite staining and a firm viscosity.

This is a young powerful wine, and the nose is still a bit restrained.  The flavors are reserved and took a little coaxing to come out.  Intense black fruits were offset by black violets and heavy compacted black earth notes.

The palate is dry and again firm.  The fruits are intense again with their black tones, although not overripe but fresh.  The palate is balanced indeed with the earth tones beginning to reveal its minerality and secondary flavors, although still only in a subtle tone at this point.  Also the tannins are firm, but still a bit rough and youthful.  I found this wine to be very well structured and built for the long haul, but needs a little more time in the bottle to wake up.  I’d like to revisit it a year or two down the road. 

93 Points Wine Spectator

And so with that we conclude the 3^rd installment of the Max Wine

Gallery.  Overall a good display, although the Lynch Bages incident was a bit disheartening.  Nonetheless I feel that the region of the Haut-Medoc was well represented from North to South.  I have one more article to conclude with for the Gallery, but the next article will be my weekend educational experiment series then a return to Saint Emilion and a fun, spur of the moment tasting that was put together for me by a very kind gentleman.  Then I will return to the Gallery and the topic will be, well I’ll leave it as a surprise for now, but let me just say you won’t want to miss it.  Salute!



Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon is easy and difficult at the same time to discuss.  It is a grape that is seen in the royal family of grapes, maybe even the king.  Like Merlot it is a common international grape that comprises quality bottles the world over.  Ever had a wine from Israel, or how about China?  Believe it when I say the first one you do eventually have if you said no will probably be Cabernet Sauvignon.  Both countries are beginning to produce quality examples of the varietal. 

The vine itself is fairly rugged.  It is a late ripening variety, and so it will thrive in a variety of climates from moderate and semi-coastal, like Bordeaux, to warm areas where it usually has no problems coming into full ripeness, like Napa Valley or Australia.  The bunches are of a normal cluster size, and the berries (the individual grapes) are fairly small with a naturally thick skin.  Remember tannins and colors come from the skins, hence why Cabernet Sauvignon is the way it is.  The resulting wine from the juice pressed is often aged in oak barrels to add complexity to the wine and increase the essence of the tannins.  Mostly the wine is strong enough to withstand longer periods of time in barrels for aging and refinement.  Cabernet Sauvignon is a versatile wine as well; it can stand alone as a pure varietal but is often blending with a wide array of grapes. 

Let me begin with Bordeaux, the birthplace of Cabernet Sauvignon, literally.  It has been determined that its parents are Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc.  The vine is the celebrity of the Left Bank, the Haut-Medoc down into the northern Graves as well.  In Bordeaux though, a temperamental moderate climate, blending is not only a necessity but a law.  It is one of the last ripening grapes of the area, and so growers have Merlot and Cabernet Franc in the vineyards as well.  In any given year the Cabernet Sauvignon may need to be harvested a few days early to avoid rain, thus the need for the blending grapes to achieve a high quality wine.  It is interesting because Bordeaux has such a distinct style, one which is attempted to be duplicated the world over.

If you live in California Cabernet Sauvignon is no stranger to you either.  This is the grape that built the fine wine industry.  Napa Valley and its western neighbor Sonoma are the stars of the show, and have histories going back over 100 years.  The place really to begin though is with Robert Mondavi and his opening of his own winery after Prohibition ended.  It was Cabernet Sauvignon that many in both valleys leaned on to be the cash crop.  Warmer and more consistent than Bordeaux, in most years there are little problems maturing the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes on the vine.  The resulting wines are traditionally stronger and fuller bodied.  Today it rivals Pinot Noir as the most popular red wine in California, much like the Bordeaux vs. Burgundy rivalry. 

Italy is mostly known for its indigenous grape varietals, but has a long standing tradition with Cabernet Sauvignon as well.  It is grown in many different regions form the north to the south, but finds its natural home in Tuscany.  It gained its success after the phylloxera epidemic that almost wiped out the European wine industry, as growers were able to replant their vineyards with vines that would be better economically.  The ‘Supertuscan’ phenomenon that began its craze in the early 1970’s is Cabernet Sauvignon driven.  Even to this day ‘Supertuscan’ wines are some of the most prestigious and sought after wines in all of Italy.  Sassicaia, Ornellaia, and Antinori’s Guado al Tasso are but a few examples.  The region of Bolgheri in the Northern Maremma is the heart of the Cabernet Sauvignon vine in Italy.  It thrives here and the growing number of producers and investment in the area is a testament to this.

Australia is definitely Shiraz country, being the thriving red varietal of the continent, but Cabernet Sauvignon not only does quite well but has a very prestigious history.  The regions tend to be very warm and thus you get a wine that is very dark and rich, warm in flavors and a bit fleshy to boot, but very refined examples do exist.  The most famous use of Cabernet Sauvignon in all of Australia is by the most well known and one of the oldest wineries in the place, Penfold’s.  Their flagship wine, Penfold’s Grange is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and the noble Shiraz.  It was created many years ago to rival the Bordeaux style and has done quite well throughout its time.  Today it can boast the reputation of one of the most sought after wines in the whole continent.  A great wine that balances the power of the two varietals amazingly.

Other major countries or regions of note for Cabernet Sauvignon are vast, in that it is so widely circulated.  Chile in South America makes some great bottles, as does Spain.  Washington State is better known for its Merlot, but makes some top quality examples as well.  Also, a bit of a curveball, one of my favorite Cabernet Sauvignon based wines comes from Chateau Musar in Lebanon.  Take the opportunity to search out a properly aged Musar and you will not be disappointed.  Or pay for dinner, and I’ll bring one of mine!

      

Merlot

Merlot

Although often overlooked these days by many in the market, Merlot is one of the most important grape varietals on the plant.  It may not have the rugged full bodied appeal like Cabernet Sauvignon, or the lean sexy seduction of a Pinot Noir, Merlot being seen as the safe and easy choice, right in the middle.  The word Merlot itself is French and translates to ‘blackbird,’ not middle like everyone seems to associate with it.  Here is a fun little fact; did you know that it is Merlot that comprises the most expensive current production wines in the world?  Not Pinot Noir, not Cabernet Sauvignon, that’s right Merlot.  It is a grape vine that is fairly early ripening and relatively healthy and so you can find it all throughout the world.  The grape is of medium size with a certain plumpness to it.  Slightly larger than Cabernet Sauvignon, although both grapes have a natural thickness to the skins and Merlot also contains a moderately high level of natural phenolic qualities, the compounds that produce tannins in the skins.  The wines can range in intensity of color, but should have a natural garnet red color that can darken depending on the amount of extraction partaken by the winemaker.  Merlot does best on clay dominant soils intermixed with minerals from limestone to sand and iron rich rock.  For flavors I look to the traditional berry fruits, tending to me more plump and red than the blackness of Cabernet Sauvignon, in the form of ripe cherries and red plums with secondary notes of cool dark earth and tobacco leaves.  One can also find toasted oak and coffee aromas in examples with barrel aging, which his common to do, as well as the herbaceous notes of mint and eucalyptus. 

Let us begin with the true home of Merlot, Bordeaux.  Here Merlot is the most planted grape varietal.  It is often Cabernet Sauvignon that gets all the hype for Bordeaux these days because of the Haut-Medoc, but it is Merlot that is the workhorse and savior in fact for Bordeaux.  You see Merlot ripens earlier than either of the Cabernet varietals, it is the first red varietal to be harvested every year.  Because of this, and the unpredictable weather, Merlot is needed to help ensure that quality wine can be produced every year.  This is why the blends will change every year due to the vintage.  Take a year like 1998.  If you look only at wines from the Haut-Medoc (Left Bank) then you see that the vintage was affected by rain and the wines did not turn out so well.  But if you look to Saint Emilion or Pomerol (Right Bank) you see a much different story.  Because of the earlier ripening Merlot being in near perefect condition and harvested before the rains arrived, you have a classically phenomenal rated vintage.   Take Chateau Le Pin and Chateau Petrus, both from Pomerol.  These are the two wines I eluded to earlier, these are the most expensive wines currently being produced in the world.  They are rare and ultra expensive.

In Italy Merlot is a grape that quietly flies underneath the radar.  But still it is in the top 5 for red varietals as far as planted acreage in all of Italy.  You can find it in the North up into the Dolomites and stretching all the way South to the island of Sicily.  There are some great bottling being made in the North, but it is Tuscany that one should look to really find the impact that merlot is making on Italy.  Tuscany will always be the land of Sangiovese, but in recent years winemakers have adopted to using Merlot most often to blending with the Sangiovese based wines to increase the mouthfeel without overwhelming the freshness and liviliness, which Cabernet Sauvignon would.  Look towards the coast and to Bolgheri and the Maremma.  Again here it is the Cabernet Sauvignon grape that gets much of the hype, the ‘Supertuscan’ phenomenan started with Cabernet based wines continues today with Merlot wines included.  Ornellaia is one of the most famous, but it is their wine labeled Masseto, a 100% Merlot, which is the most sought after cult Supertuscan produced today.  Also the ‘Redigaffi’ from Tua Rita is pure Merlot, and has received a perfect 100 Points before by Wine Spectator. 

In the U.S., we are concerned with two states, California and Washington.  Of course California has a long and fabled history with the likes of Napa and Sonoma valleys, both of which are extremely important locals for the Merlot grape.  Here though it is often overlooked again my wineries in exchange for Cabernet Sauvignon, which also grows well and fetches higher price tags.  Even with this fact mostly true, there are still many good examples of Merlot dominant wines to be found.  And, like in Bordeaux, many winemakers would admit that it is the earlier ripening Merlot which is indeed vital especially in years that are filled with less favorable weather conditions.

In Washington State you have a much different story.  Here is the ‘Right Bank’ to California’s ‘Left Bank’ dominant mindset.  Merlot thrives in the arid lands east of the Cascade Mountain Range.  Yes you can definitely find quality Cabernet Sauvignon and even Syrah wines being grown, but it is Merlot that has truly helped to shape and mold the image of the Washington wine scene.  The vine does well in the moderate climate that is mostly shadowed from heavy rains by the Cascades.  Rich, dense, and complex examples can be found, and at good values still too.  

Bordeaux

Bordeaux

To begin I have to say that there have been countless books written on this wine region and its famous chateau, and so a full detailed description would take far too much time and space to include here.  What I will attempt to do is to give consolidated account of the region so as to make it a bit easier to understand the place, and more importantly what is in the bottle that you are considering purchasing.  A fair deal I figure.

Bordeaux is a very large place, the largest appellation in all of France in fact.  To make it as easy as possible I am going to divide the region into 3 parts and discuss them a separately.  But first, where is Bordeaux?  The region itself is centered around the city of the same name and has a long history due to its location.  It can be considered coastal, as it is not so far off from the Atlantic Ocean, but more importantly as a port city due to its being on the banks of the beginning of the Gironde River.  Right around the city itself is where the 2 smaller rivers, the Garonne towards the south and the Dordogne towards the east converge and the Gironde flows north towards the ocean.  And so this is very important to understand the land, but also for the ease of division.  Region 1 will be the Right Bank, Region 2 will be the Left Bank, and Region 3 will be Graves.

Before I begin with the regions I want to lay down the foundation, the rootstock have you, aka the grape varietals.  To keep it as simple as possible, there are 5 red varietals and 2 white varietals that will make up the wines of Bordeaux.  For the reds you have Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet France, Malbec, and Petit Verdot.  For the whites it is even easier, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc.  

Region 1: The Right Bank

When people refer to the Right Bank, they are talking about the West Bank of the Gironde River and as it extends into the Dordogne River through the region Libournais.  The two major appellations for wine are Saint Emilion and the smaller Pomerol to its immediate west.  The most important single fact about the Right Bank to know is that this is Merlot country.  By far the most widely planted varietal here, followed second by Cabernet Franc.  The reason for this is the soil.  Each of the 3 regions has differences in their soils, making each one unique.  What makes the Right Bank so unique is that it is dominated by Clay soils, which Merlot tends to thrive in.  There is great variety throughout though, with limestone, gravel, and sand being intermixed in varying consistency within the region.  This makes for different wines to be produced from properties which are very close together.

For Saint Emilion, which is the largest of the important communes on the Right Bank, you have a history with vineyards that goes back farther than the Medoc.  It was only in 1958 though that a classification was put into place.  It is to be revised every 10 years, with the last officially recognized revision being done in 1996.  2006 was ruled void, and so we will have to wait for the next attempt a few years.  Premier Grand Cru Classe is the highest level, but the interesting thing here is that there are two levels, an A & a B.  Only two wineries, Chateau Cheval Blanc (which sits on the Western border of the commune) and Chateau Ausone (which backs up to the southern edge of the town proper) are Level A, with 13 houses currently recognized as level B.  Next there are Grand Cru Classe wines and then Grand Cru wines.  You can also find wines simply labeled as Saint Emilion A.O.C. before entering the Bordeaux label.  There are a lot of Saint Emilion wines on the market these days, a lot of it for good value too, and so enjoy trying unknown houses and finding those gems in the rough.  You will pay more for Premier and Grand Cru Classe wines, but they more often than not will be of very high quality and worth the investment.

To the west of Saint Emilion, and sharing its eastern border with, is Pomerol.  In comparison this commune is very small in size, the smallest in Bordeaux in fact, and number of chateau as well.  The skinny is that the soils here are very similar in make up with clay dominant but you find a lot more sand and gravel in the topsoil depending where you are.   A main point of the wines of Pomerol is that they again are Merlot dominant, but usually much more so than Saint Emilion.  They have much less Cabernet Franc and almost no Cabernet Sauvignon within the vineyards. 

The commune does have a long standing history, but interestingly enough has never been classified with any type of ranking system.  There are a few speculative reasons for this, but let's leave it up to the speculator's.  In a commune with ambiguity among the ranks you also find the most expensive wines in all of Bordeaux, possibly even the world.  The first to mention is Chateau Petrus which sits on the eastern side of the commune, lying on a little hill higher in elevation than most in the region and very close to the border of Saint Emilion.  The soil here in the vineyards of Petrus are a special loamy mix, comprised of clay, sand, and silt over an iron rich subsoil.  This combination gives the vines plenty of minerals while keeping the available water low enough to produce high quality grapes.  The wine is almost purely Merlot, very rare, supremely expensive, and ridiculously delicious. 

Then there is the little house on the prairie called Chateau Le Pin.  A wine that is more sought after by many collectors than even Petrus due to its lower quantities, this is a wine that is only obtainable by the wealthy and elite.  To date I have only physically seen a bottle of Le Pin once, two bottles (1996 & 1999) in fact in Bordeaux, and on the restaurant menu they were about 7,000 Euro each, to give you an idea. 

I recommend, and I will do an article on it myself as well, to try a wine from both Saint Emilion and Pomerol of the same vintage and similar price side-by-side.  See which you like more and then go from there.

The remainder of the Right Bank is comprised of many satellite communes who can at times produce quality wines, but for the most part are mid level example of what good Bordeaux can be.  There is Lalande de Pomerol to the direct North of Pomerol proper, a poor man’s Pomerol have you.  Also to the West of Libourne is Fronsac, and more importantly Canon-Fronsac within.  In a good vintage this area can produce some age worthy reds made with pretty equal proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  And lastly of note is Bourg & Blaye which is directly across the Gironde from the Haut-Medoc and can, like Canon-Fronsac produce some good value Bordeaux wines from good vintages.    

For the complete list of classified Saint Emilion houses:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Classification_of_Saint-%C3%89milion_wine

Region 2: The Left Bank

Here we are talking about the Left Bank (or West Bank) of the Gironde River which extends north from the city of Bordeaux.  The region is called the Medoc and has a very long and fabled history.  The Medoc is divided into two parts, the Bas Medoc and the Haut-Medoc, and for ease we are going to concern ourselves only with the Haut-Medoc which, geographically, is farther to the south and closer to the city of Bordeaux.  This region often gets the most fame and praise from the wine community, which is interesting because they have the shortest history of the 3 major regions.  Up until the 17^th Century the Haut-Medoc was marshlands, estuaries of the mighty

 Gironde River.  It was the Dutch mainly that devised the idea to cut canals into the area and effectively drain the area out.  What remained was the perfect soil to grow Cabernet Sauvignon on.  The Haut-Medoc is Cabernet Sauvignon country, as most of the bottling are majority this grape, along with varying amounts of Merlot blended in.  This region utilizes all 5 of the Bordeaux varietals in their blends, each house differing in selections and percentages of course. 

There are 6 sub-communes of the Haut-Medoc, from the north to south: Saint Estephe, Pauillac, Saint Julien, Listrac, Moulis-en-Medoc, and Margaux.  For ease we will focus on Saint Estephe, Pauillac, Saint Julien, and Margaux as these are the most important areas.  Even as early as the beginning of the 1700’s producers had begun to build quite a reputation in the Haut-Medoc, but we will fast forward to 1855 and the Paris Exhibition.  This is the site of, and reason for, the first official classification of Bordeaux wines, more specifically, wines of the Haut-Medoc.  It was done by the merchants and the exporters, taking into account the chateau and the price of the wine on the market at the time.  In all 61 chateau were classified, 60 of them from the Haut-Medoc (Chateau Haut Brion was the only outsider, being from Graves south of Bordeaux).  The wines were divided into 5 levels or growths, with

 1^st Growths being the highest award, Premier Grand Cru Classe.  There were only 4

houses awarded this merit, Chateau Lafite Rothschild (Pauillac), Chateau Latour (Pauillac), Chateau Margaux (Margaux), and Chateau Haut Brion (Graves).  Chateau Mouton Rothschild was originally a 2^nd Growth, elevated in 1973.  This

single move is the only time the 1855 Classification has been amended.  In the Classification were also the Sweet dessert wines from the Southern Graves, Sauterne and Barsac.  Those will be covered in their respective section.  The Margaux commune has the most houses classed at 21, with Pauillac right behind at 18. 

Because of the lack of revision in over 150 years the classification holds great history but not as great significance these days.  Due to much improvement in certain chateau, and consequently decline in others, there are instances where the level is no longer relevant anymore.  And so because of this you have two phenomenons.  The first is the coined term ‘Super Seconds,’ which speak of wines that are non-classed 1^st Growths but produce wines that rival the 1^st Growths in quality each year.  The other

is that you have chateau that are not classed but produce wines that rival, and excel compared to some of the classed chateau.  I know that Bordeaux can be very confusing, even with me trying to spell it out here.  The best advice I can ultimately give is to try some for yourself and see what you think.  Also the age old rule of listening to a trusted professional to help steer you in the right direction.

It is said that the wines of Margaux are the most refined, a perfect balance between power and finesse in style.  To the north, in Saint Julien, the wines are said to be stronger in style with a bit bigger tannins, but still having great harmony and balance.  In Pauillac, which contains 3 of the 5 1^st Growths, you are said to have wines of great

power and fine tannins, richly structured and densely refined.  To the far north is Saint Estephe, where the soils are noticeably heavier and containing a bit more sand and clay.  The wines tend to be very powerful, with firm tannins that are a bit rougher around the edges compared to its neighbors to the south.

In general Left Bank Bordeaux is power balanced with harmony in a glass.  This is the area for the best Cabernet based wines in the world.  Like I said before, every house has their own recipe, but most of the time Cabernet is the main attraction.  Look for wines with dark fruit flavors which will vary depending on the warmth of the vintage.  The earth tones here are dark and gravelly, often offset by the influence of the toasty accents of the barriques used for aging.  The tannins will be big, but balanced by the acidity of the other grapes in the blend, and the finish should be long and elegant.  I often enjoy the subtle nuances of each wine house which can range from the eucalyptus and violet floral notes to chocolate, licorice, or graphite shavings.    

Region 3: Graves

The word Graves translates to ‘gravel’ in French, and it is easy to see why the region is called thus when you look at a vineyard-they are full of varying sizes rocks.  The region itself as a whole is the Graves, and begins in the north with the city of Bordeaux proper.  Here is where some of the most famous vineyards in all of Bordeaux are located.  Chateau Haut Brion for instance is almost in the city and has suburbs slowly closing in on its area from most all sides.  The region continues south on the west bank of the Garonne River down to the famed regions of Barsac and Sauterne.  The region overall is versatile as it produces high class red wines, dry white wines, and of course the famed dessert wines.

Here in the Graves we still talk about Cabernet Sauvignon as the principal red, although a good percentage of Merlot is grown as well.  Cabernet Franc is also present, but Malbec and Petit Verdot are grown in very small amounts usually.  For the whites you find healthy amounts of both Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc.  Each house style that produces a white will dictate which it wants to emphasize more.  In the southern end in Sauterne it is the qualities of Semillon to be afflicted by Botrytis which makes it such a great selection for these vineyards.

In the north we talk about Pessac Leognan.  The regions of Graves and Pessac Leognan have some of the oldest chateau in all of Bordeaux, a longer history than the Haut-Medoc for sure.  It is a strange circumstance then that the region of Graves did not get its first classification until 1953, which was finalized in 1959.  The classification designated which houses were to bear the designation of Grand Cru Classe.  The classification was done for both red and white wines, and some houses were of such a quality that both their wines achieved this designation.  The sub-zone of Pessac Leognan which encompasses the northern end of the region of Graves was only recognized as a defined sub-zone in 1987, very recent given the history of Bordeaux.  This area covers all of the most famous and highest quality chateau in Graves for dry wines.

In the southern end of Graves we get into dessert wine country, the famed region of Sauterne and its neighbor Barsac.  These communes have such a long and fabled history in the European wine world that they were classified with the chateau of the Haut-Medoc in 1855.  Only Chateau d’Yquem in Sauterne received the highest designation and indeed to this day continues to be the absolute epitome of the style.  Other properties from both communes make wines that often rival the wines from d’Yquem, at a fraction of the price, and so I recommend trying one of these before you splurge on the best.  Make sure you like the style before you invest.  Still though, a glass of fine Sauterne and some Foie Gras (sorry if you don’t support in the foodstuff) is one of those perfect pairings of flavors.  I should quickly explain that Botrytis is a fungal disease that is particular to this small area, and only a few others in the world.  What happens is that this ‘noble rot’ dehydrates the grapes, thus concentrating the sugar content.  When the grapes are pressed their liquid is thick and rich.  The wines are aged for usually a minimum of 3 years in barrels and the resulting wines as mentioned are ‘liquid gold.’

The red wines of this region will often mirror the style of a wine from the Haut-Medoc, although of course with its own personality.  The big difference is due to its more southern location it does ripen a bit earlier than the Medoc, and this is a good thing.  Also because they for the most part stick more to the big 3 red grapes and use less of the blending grapes there will be subtle differences, very minor though. 

Dry white wines from the Pessac Leognan sub-zone are quite amazing, being only matched by some of the best houses in the Haut-Medoc.  Still though these are easier to source and can often be less expensive.  Only Chateau Margaux Blanc and Chateau Haut Brion Blanc enter my mind as ultra expensive White Bordeaux wines, neither of which I have had to date.  Remember there are 2 main grapes here, and either can comprise the majority of the blend.  The wines are almost always aged in oak barrique which gives them a unique texture and flavor.  Sauvignon Blanc based wines will tend to be a bit lighter in the palate and focusing more on the bright ripe fruit qualities.  Semillon is a bit fatter in the mouth and the flavors tend to lean more towards waxy apple skins and many off-fruit accents.  It is interesting to try an example of each side-by-side to identify the style and personal preference.  To be impartial, I will keep mine secret.

The dessert wines of Sauterne and Barsac are almost sensual in their flavors and bodies.  They are deep and rich and exotic, and the best chateau in the best years can be almost emotional in description.  The first time I tasted Chateau d’Yquem (Christmas Eve 2010-1995 vintage) I was at a loss of words.  They can be that captivating.  Also due to the structure and process of making these wines they are some of the longest lived wines in the bottle.  Open a great producer from a great year 20, 40, 60 years down the road and the wine can still be fantastic, truly magical.

     

Scansano

Located some 30 kilometers southeast of Grosseto is the small hilltop town of Scansano.  What it may lack in sheer size it more than makes up for in importance, for you see Scansano is the town at the heart of one of Tuscany’s most prestigious wines, the D.O.C.G. Morellino di Scansano.  The wines of Scansano are at the forefront of the Maremma movement in the international wine scene.  Sangiovese based, much light Chianti, but with a warmer climate and so there is a riper concentration to the fruit influence.  Wander up and down the different streets and get lost in direction, and time.  Like many other small old towns in Tuscany there is a feeling of a place that time has forgotten about.  The traffic of cars in the narrow streets will bring you back though.  This is a charming place that is still a local’s haven; the café’s being filled with the people who keep the town alive year round.  Find a great little enoteca in Piazza Garibaldi and enjoy some wonder Morellino wines and delicious well prized Panini from traditional local products.  A day spent in this small town will be one of the highlights of any trip to the Maremma, especially with a visit to a local cantina and wine tasting blended in!

Sauvignon Blanc

Sauvignon (Blanc)

Not a very common grape, but one that is increasing in vineyard plantings and popularity in Tuscany is the French grape Sauvignon (Blanc).  The Italians drop the Blanc label and simply refer to it as Sauvignon.  In an attempt to increase the recognition of Tuscan white wines in the international market, international grapes have been adopted, thus the influx of this foreign grape to Tuscany.  Traditionally best as a crisp fresh white wine that is naturally high in acid and rich with citrus and herbaceous flavors, it is one that, like Vermentino, enjoys the influence of the natural herbal shrubbery of Tuscany.  It is a vine that does enjoy the cooler climates where is can stay high in acid, and so the high altitude and coastal sites are best.  It also does quite well in the north of Italy in the cool climate high altitudes of the Alps.  Although not common, there are good examples of Tuscan Sauvignon on the market and in the movement to recognize Tuscany for its white wines in addition to its famous reds, more quality big-name bottling will reach the shelves.          

Chardonnay

Chardonnay

Chardonnay seems to be the preferred white wine of the world.  In almost every wine producing nation on the planet one can find the Chardonnay vine being cultivated.  It is native to the Burgundy region in France, but because of its versatility and resilient nature, as well as commercial viability, every region in Italy has examples of Chardonnay being produced.  Like many other international grapes, it is believed that this vine began showing up in vineyards after the phylloxera epidemic towards the turn of the 20^th Century as a change from many of the unknown indigenous varietals.  Tuscany, of course, has its quality examples to add to the market as well.  It is very interesting because just like all over the world the Chardonnays being produced in Tuscany are really a window into the climate with which it derives from.  Think about the difference from a Chablis, in the far north stretches of the Burgundy region, and how crisp and refreshing and highly acidic and precise these wines are.  Now consider a Chardonnay from Mersault further to the south in Burgundy.  These wines have a much different climate and soil-terroir in fact- and also have different general production methods.  The wines produced are much richer and more full bodied, creamy and rounded with much a much different fruit profile.  The same phenomenon can be cited in Tuscany, and it is this characteristic that indeed makes Chardonnay so interesting.  Growers in the high altitude cool climates of Chianti Classico are having much different results than those growing the vine in the Maremma.  There are two styles to Chardonnay and they really define the flavor profile of the grape.  The first is more the Chablis-style, where freshness and acidity are preserved by not allowing maleolactic fermentation to begin and to keep the wines aging confined to cold temperature stainless steel tanks.  With this style more of the green apple and citrus notes are preserved and one gets more the essence of cool weather minerality notes on a dry crisp acidic finish.  The second style is in the opposite school of thought, to put the juice into barrels to ferment on the lees (sediments from the crushing of the grapes) and to go through with maleolactic fermentation so as to convert the tart acids to the creamier acids.  It is this process which gives these wines the more full bodied mouth feel and the resulting flavors of butterscotch, cream, and toasty nutty qualities.  The fruits will be riper as well, more the yellow apples and exotic tropical fruits like pineapple for example.  Most bottles will not tell which method has been chosen, the back label description is always a good place to check, and so one should really know the style of the house producing the wine and what direction they prefer for their Chardonnay.  A good test, but not always true, is the price tag.  Often the more expensive the Chardonnay, the more oak influence it has seen.  But this is by no means a truth, as there are very many expensive bottles of Chardonnay from around the world that have more of the fresh crisp style in mind.  Try a quality representation of both styles and figure out for yourself which is more preferred.

Chardonnay seems to be the preferred white wine of the world.  In almost every wine producing nation on the planet one can find the Chardonnay vine being cultivated.  It is native to the Burgundy region in France, but because of its versatility and resilient nature, as well as commercial viability, every region in Italy has examples of Chardonnay being produced.  Like many other international grapes, it is believed that this vine began showing up in vineyards after the phylloxera epidemic towards the turn of the 20^th Century as a change from many of the unknown indigenous varietals.  Tuscany, of course, has its quality examples to add to the market as well.  It is very interesting because just like all over the world the Chardonnays being produced in Tuscany are really a window into the climate with which it derives from.  Think about the difference from a Chablis, in the far north stretches of the Burgundy region, and how crisp and refreshing and highly acidic and precise these wines are.  Now consider a Chardonnay from Mersault further to the south in Burgundy.  These wines have a much different climate and soil-terroir in fact- and also have different general production methods.  The wines produced are much richer and more full bodied, creamy and rounded with much a much different fruit profile.  The same phenomenon can be cited in Tuscany, and it is this characteristic that indeed makes Chardonnay so interesting.  Growers in the high altitude cool climates of Chianti Classico are having much different results than those growing the vine in the Maremma.  There are two styles to Chardonnay and they really define the flavor profile of the grape.  The first is more the Chablis-style, where freshness and acidity are preserved by not allowing maleolactic fermentation to begin and to keep the wines aging confined to cold temperature stainless steel tanks.  With this style more of the green apple and citrus notes are preserved and one gets more the essence of cool weather minerality notes on a dry crisp acidic finish.  The second style is in the opposite school of thought, to put the juice into barrels to ferment on the lees (sediments from the crushing of the grapes) and to go through with maleolactic fermentation so as to convert the tart acids to the creamier acids.  It is this process which gives these wines the more full bodied mouth feel and the resulting flavors of butterscotch, cream, and toasty nutty qualities.  The fruits will be riper as well, more the yellow apples and exotic tropical fruits like pineapple for example.  Most bottles will not tell which method has been chosen, the back label description is always a good place to check, and so one should really know the style of the house producing the wine and what direction they prefer for their Chardonnay.  A good test, but not always true, is the price tag.  Often the more expensive the Chardonnay, the more oak influence it has seen.  But this is by no means a truth, as there are very many expensive bottles of Chardonnay from around the world that have more of the fresh crisp style in mind.  Try a quality representation of both styles and figure out for yourself which is more preferred.

Chardonnay seems to be the preferred white wine of the world.  In almost every wine producing nation on the planet one can find the Chardonnay vine being cultivated.  It is native to the Burgundy region in France, but because of its versatility and resilient nature, as well as commercial viability, every region in Italy has examples of Chardonnay being produced.  Like many other international grapes, it is believed that this vine began showing up in vineyards after the phylloxera epidemic towards the turn of the 20^th Century as a change from many of the unknown indigenous varietals.  Tuscany, of course, has its quality examples to add to the market as well.  It is very interesting because just like all over the world the Chardonnays being produced in Tuscany are really a window into the climate with which it derives from.  Think about the difference from a Chablis, in the far north stretches of the Burgundy region, and how crisp and refreshing and highly acidic and precise these wines are.  Now consider a Chardonnay from Mersault further to the south in Burgundy.  These wines have a much different climate and soil-terroir in fact- and also have different general production methods.  The wines produced are much richer and more full bodied, creamy and rounded with much a much different fruit profile.  The same phenomenon can be cited in Tuscany, and it is this characteristic that indeed makes Chardonnay so interesting.  Growers in the high altitude cool climates of Chianti Classico are having much different results than those growing the vine in the Maremma.  There are two styles to Chardonnay and they really define the flavor profile of the grape.  The first is more the Chablis-style, where freshness and acidity are preserved by not allowing maleolactic fermentation to begin and to keep the wines aging confined to cold temperature stainless steel tanks.  With this style more of the green apple and citrus notes are preserved and one gets more the essence of cool weather minerality notes on a dry crisp acidic finish.  The second style is in the opposite school of thought, to put the juice into barrels to ferment on the lees (sediments from the crushing of the grapes) and to go through with maleolactic fermentation so as to convert the tart acids to the creamier acids.  It is this process which gives these wines the more full bodied mouth feel and the resulting flavors of butterscotch, cream, and toasty nutty qualities.  The fruits will be riper as well, more the yellow apples and exotic tropical fruits like pineapple for example.  Most bottles will not tell which method has been chosen, the back label description is always a good place to check, and so one should really know the style of the house producing the wine and what direction they prefer for their Chardonnay.  A good test, but not always true, is the price tag.  Often the more expensive the Chardonnay, the more oak influence it has seen.  But this is by no means a truth, as there are very many expensive bottles of Chardonnay from around the world that have more of the fresh crisp style in mind.  Try a quality representation of both styles and figure out for yourself which is more preferred.

 

Viognier

Viognier

A native vine of France most famous from the Northern Rhone Valley, Viognier is finding a welcome home in the coastal regions of Southern Tuscany.  Not as popular as the native Vermentino, although it is gaining many supporters each vintage as high quality examples are released to the market.  It is a vine that thrives in warm sunny climates where water supplies can be in short supply, and thus enjoys the Maremma region quite well.  Wines produced from Viognier can be characterized as highly aromatic and robust, perfumed full bodied whites.  Some so much so that pairing with a food dish becomes increasingly difficult.  In the recipes section we have a delicious successful solution for that problem!  The wine tends to be golden in color with a strong concentration and a higher alcohol level, with fruits of very ripe apricots and peaches even going towards tropical fruits like mango and pineapple.  Again it is a very perfumed varietal and so good examples will also have strong floral notes that are accented with spicy notes on the finish.     

Malvasia

Malvasia

Like Trebbiano, the Malvasia species of vine is one that has many different subspecies throughout all of Italy.  It is an old vine as well, thought to have been brought over thousands of years ago by the Greeks.  The grape is seen in a similar light as Trebbiano, not highly interesting on its own, and so is almost always blended with Trebbiano throughout Italy, including Tuscany.  It appears that Malvasia and Trebbiano have indeed found themselves a great marriage in Central Italy.  The most famous wines produced from Malvasia are again the Vin Santo wines of Tuscany (See Trebbiano above).  Still white wine versions are produced, but are increasingly rare and usually only available locally around the town of their production. 

Trebbiano Toscano

Trebbiano Toscano

By far, Trebbiano Toscano is the most planted white grape in all of Tuscany.  The Trebbiano family is the most planted white grape in all of Italy in fact, and the Toscano version is the most common throughout all of Central Italy.  In France, the grape is also very popular, especially in the production of Cognac, as the varietal Ugni Blanc.  It is a vine that is highly productive, resistant to disease and pests, and naturally high in acidity.  All of these qualities made it a very popular vine to grow after World War II when Italy was attempting to rebuild itself and increase its exports to the international market.  Most always, if you are drinking the house white in a Tuscan trattoria, you are drinking a Trebbiano based wine.  It’s most well known and highest regarded wines are the Vin Santo wines of Tuscany.  These are dessert style wines that have a special history.  These wines are unique and intense, and with the traditional almond biscotti you truly find a perfect food and wine pairing.  In these wines the Trebbiano is blended with Malvasia and the grapes are first dried, passito, so as to concentrate the sugars and intensify the flavors.  The juice produced from the dried grapes is vinified in very small barrels, chestnut or oak, and left to age for years without ever topping off the barrels.  If one has never experienced these ‘holy wines’ then it is not recommended-but mandatory- to do so, otherwise one cannot truly understand and appreciate a Tuscan meal to its total fulfillment.  Don’t forget the almond biscotti for dunking either.     

Vernaccia

Vernaccia

Relatively speaking, Vernaccia (coming from the Latin word for ‘indigenous’) is the most important white grape in Tuscany.  I say relatively because it has a long history and has been a wine recognized by the international market for some time.  The vines are of native origin, and can be found all throughout Italy, but the most important of all the Vernaccia types are the vines around the medieval castle town of San Gimignano.  Vernaccia di San Gimignano was the 1^st D.O.C. region granted status in 1966.  It later was elevated to D.O.C.G. status in 1993.  Its history is recorded in city records going back to the 13^th Century, thus the importance in more recent times with the D.O.C.G. status.  Unfortunately, the story of Vernaccia di San Gimignano has a dark age, much in the same style as Chianti.  As a way for Italians to increase exports and make more profits, much of these wines that were distributed during the 1970’s and 1980’s were of very low quality and for the most part indistinguishable as anything more than a light white wine.  The movement of late has been changing this, and there is much improvement, but one must understand that this is a light white wine true and true.  For one that enjoys the robust flavors of a barrique fermented Chardonnay, Vernaccia may fall short on the palate.  The grape is naturally light in aromas and flavors, with a soft florality and tinges of bitter almond on the finish.  To increase its appeal to the international market many producers have begun to increase grapes into the blends of this wine that are fuller in body and higher in aromatic complexities, like Chardonnay and Viognier.  Because of this though, many producers are having to declassify their wines to Toscana Bianco I.G.T. wines, much the same phenomenon as the ‘Supertuscan’ trend with reds in the 1970’s and 1980’s.  Still, it is highly recommended to try both styles and decide for yourself which style is more preferred.