Max Wine Gallery Visit 3

Max Wine Gallery Visit 3

Bordeaux, France

28-12-2010



Welcome back everyone to another installment of the series of Bordeaux tastings from the Max Wine Gallery.  So far we have covered Value selections in the 1^st article and focused on some of the chateau of the Right Bank in the 2^nd edition.  And from a recent posting you were able

to relive the wonderful culinary experience of La Tupina and Christmas dinner.  So it is only appropriate that we move along in geographical proximity and ferry ourselves across the Gironde to the Left Bank. 

As with the previous installments fashion, this article is dedicated strictly to 5 wines from the Left Bank, the Haut-Medoc.  To help you understand the area a bit I have added the educational information to the resource area.  Simply select the Bordeaux wine region link and it will take you to this page.  Here you can learn a bit about what makes the Left Bank so famous.  Also, like with the Right Bank posting, I have gone and added the Cabernet Sauvignon varietal description to that section of the resources bar.  Remember, the Haut-Medoc is Cabernet country.  Of the 5 wines discussed here I tried to make it as widespread as possible so as to cover the various communes of the Haut-Medoc.  I am happy to report that I was able to arrange the wines so that each of the 4 major communes is represented.  Let us begin…

1) Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux 2006 Margaux

This is the 2^nd label of the famous Chateau Margaux.  With every top estate that bottles a 2^nd wine, this is the fruit that comes from the younger

vines as well as any barrels not selected for the Grand Vin.  Still, at over $100 a bottle it is not quite a value wine, although compared to the Grand Vin it is.

The wine is Starbright with a clear ruby red color which is firmly concentrated.  The wine is youthful, with a minor variation beginning to form on the rim.  The tears are medium plus and they have noticeable staining to them.

The nose of the wine is a bit muted at this point in evolution, with a mellow intensity.  Even with a little swirling and warmth from the hand it took some work to wake her up.  Eventually some tart dark red fruits emerged, a bit of leathery tones and very mild earth tones. 

The palate of the wine was easy drinking and smooth, but still a bit wound up and waiting for the flavors to unravel.  May be a good one to revisit in a year or two and re-taste.

88 Points Wine Spectator

2) Chateau Leoville Barton 2006 Saint Julien



Always a highly acclaimed chateau, and one of the best value wines for the quality you receive.  In 2009, this bottle was the #64 Wine of the Year by the reviewers at Wine Spectator and received 94 Points.

The wine is Starbright with a clear deep garnet color and a firm concentration.  The rim variation is light, but does noticeably fade to a lighter ruby red at the edge.  The tears are moderate in their viscosity and do have some staining.

The nose has a medium intensity with great balance.  There are red fruits of cherries and raspberries set off against some chocolate and dark earth tones.  The aromas seem to have a warm tone to them. 

The palate has great structure and shows why it is so highly regarded.  The flavors are confirmed and build up to a higher intensity and overall a warm and refined display.  The tannins are firm but polished, and the wine is beginning to show quite well in its youth.

94 Points Wine Spectator

3) Chateau Leoville Las Cases 2006 Saint Julien

Here is another example of the Saint Julien commune, and a house that is indeed very close to the previous wine Leoville Barton.  Las Cases is classified as a 2^nd Growth as well, and can be in the consideration of a

‘Super Second.’

The wine has a clear Daybright garnet color with a firm medium plus concentration, still with some transparency tones to it.  The rim variation is very minimal and the wine has great youthful visual effects to it.  The tears have a concentrated viscosity and strong staining quality to them.

The nose has a medium intensity and shows great finesse of balance.  The fresh black fruits are set against a subtly hint of smoke and violets, accented by a loose dark earth element that is lingers on the back end.

The palate is ripe with dried fruits of red currants and cherries, all of which are balanced with the accents of the toasty oak notes.  The earth is warm with the definite loose pebbly minerality apparent.  The wine is dry with balanced tannins and acids; the alcohol is finely integrated as well.  The finish is long and persistent, again a wine of great structure and artistically crafted.

95 Points Wine Spectator

4) Chateau Lynch Bages Pauillac 2006

Here is a perfect example of a winery that consistently outperforms its 1855 classification.  Originally ranked as a 5^th Growth, the lowest of the

ranking, today due to many improvements over the years Chateau Lynch Bages is seen as a wine of great structure and appeal.  In the commune where the 1^st Growths dominate and the prices are astronomical, Lynch

Bages is a relatively good price to try and experience the power that a Pauillac wine can deliver.

I am sad to report that the bottle that the sample was poured from was extremely flawed due to over-exposure to oxygen; the bottle had been open for too long.  I brought this to the attention of the staff on hand, and was refunded the cost of the taste, but a new taste out of a new bottle was not offered.  It was disappointing in that I genuinely believe the women working there, although also seeming to be fairly young (about 30), did not perceive me as one who knew about wines.  A shame that still I have to continue to hurdle over this obstacle.  What is even more frustrating is that I tasted this wine on Dec 24^th, and the same bottle sat until my visit on the 28^th when another person pointed out the same

problem.  It was then promptly replaced for them.  A huge blemish from my perspective on the Max Wine Gallery.

92 Points Wine Spectator

5) Chateau Cos d’Estournel Saint Estephe 2006

And so with the finally wine of this report we had made our way to the northernmost commune of the Haut-Medoc, Saint Estephe.  This region has the fewest amount of houses that are classified, but has some good choices of chateau nonetheless.  One of which is Chateau Cos d’Estournel, one of two 2^nd Growths and definitely considered a ‘Super

Second.’  This house is hands down the most prestigious of all the houses in Saint Estephe.

The wine has a clear garnet color with a slightly muted brightness to it.  The rim is very youthful and only beginning to show any variation while the tears have a definite staining and a firm viscosity.

This is a young powerful wine, and the nose is still a bit restrained.  The flavors are reserved and took a little coaxing to come out.  Intense black fruits were offset by black violets and heavy compacted black earth notes.

The palate is dry and again firm.  The fruits are intense again with their black tones, although not overripe but fresh.  The palate is balanced indeed with the earth tones beginning to reveal its minerality and secondary flavors, although still only in a subtle tone at this point.  Also the tannins are firm, but still a bit rough and youthful.  I found this wine to be very well structured and built for the long haul, but needs a little more time in the bottle to wake up.  I’d like to revisit it a year or two down the road. 

93 Points Wine Spectator

And so with that we conclude the 3^rd installment of the Max Wine

Gallery.  Overall a good display, although the Lynch Bages incident was a bit disheartening.  Nonetheless I feel that the region of the Haut-Medoc was well represented from North to South.  I have one more article to conclude with for the Gallery, but the next article will be my weekend educational experiment series then a return to Saint Emilion and a fun, spur of the moment tasting that was put together for me by a very kind gentleman.  Then I will return to the Gallery and the topic will be, well I’ll leave it as a surprise for now, but let me just say you won’t want to miss it.  Salute!



Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon is easy and difficult at the same time to discuss.  It is a grape that is seen in the royal family of grapes, maybe even the king.  Like Merlot it is a common international grape that comprises quality bottles the world over.  Ever had a wine from Israel, or how about China?  Believe it when I say the first one you do eventually have if you said no will probably be Cabernet Sauvignon.  Both countries are beginning to produce quality examples of the varietal. 

The vine itself is fairly rugged.  It is a late ripening variety, and so it will thrive in a variety of climates from moderate and semi-coastal, like Bordeaux, to warm areas where it usually has no problems coming into full ripeness, like Napa Valley or Australia.  The bunches are of a normal cluster size, and the berries (the individual grapes) are fairly small with a naturally thick skin.  Remember tannins and colors come from the skins, hence why Cabernet Sauvignon is the way it is.  The resulting wine from the juice pressed is often aged in oak barrels to add complexity to the wine and increase the essence of the tannins.  Mostly the wine is strong enough to withstand longer periods of time in barrels for aging and refinement.  Cabernet Sauvignon is a versatile wine as well; it can stand alone as a pure varietal but is often blending with a wide array of grapes. 

Let me begin with Bordeaux, the birthplace of Cabernet Sauvignon, literally.  It has been determined that its parents are Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc.  The vine is the celebrity of the Left Bank, the Haut-Medoc down into the northern Graves as well.  In Bordeaux though, a temperamental moderate climate, blending is not only a necessity but a law.  It is one of the last ripening grapes of the area, and so growers have Merlot and Cabernet Franc in the vineyards as well.  In any given year the Cabernet Sauvignon may need to be harvested a few days early to avoid rain, thus the need for the blending grapes to achieve a high quality wine.  It is interesting because Bordeaux has such a distinct style, one which is attempted to be duplicated the world over.

If you live in California Cabernet Sauvignon is no stranger to you either.  This is the grape that built the fine wine industry.  Napa Valley and its western neighbor Sonoma are the stars of the show, and have histories going back over 100 years.  The place really to begin though is with Robert Mondavi and his opening of his own winery after Prohibition ended.  It was Cabernet Sauvignon that many in both valleys leaned on to be the cash crop.  Warmer and more consistent than Bordeaux, in most years there are little problems maturing the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes on the vine.  The resulting wines are traditionally stronger and fuller bodied.  Today it rivals Pinot Noir as the most popular red wine in California, much like the Bordeaux vs. Burgundy rivalry. 

Italy is mostly known for its indigenous grape varietals, but has a long standing tradition with Cabernet Sauvignon as well.  It is grown in many different regions form the north to the south, but finds its natural home in Tuscany.  It gained its success after the phylloxera epidemic that almost wiped out the European wine industry, as growers were able to replant their vineyards with vines that would be better economically.  The ‘Supertuscan’ phenomenon that began its craze in the early 1970’s is Cabernet Sauvignon driven.  Even to this day ‘Supertuscan’ wines are some of the most prestigious and sought after wines in all of Italy.  Sassicaia, Ornellaia, and Antinori’s Guado al Tasso are but a few examples.  The region of Bolgheri in the Northern Maremma is the heart of the Cabernet Sauvignon vine in Italy.  It thrives here and the growing number of producers and investment in the area is a testament to this.

Australia is definitely Shiraz country, being the thriving red varietal of the continent, but Cabernet Sauvignon not only does quite well but has a very prestigious history.  The regions tend to be very warm and thus you get a wine that is very dark and rich, warm in flavors and a bit fleshy to boot, but very refined examples do exist.  The most famous use of Cabernet Sauvignon in all of Australia is by the most well known and one of the oldest wineries in the place, Penfold’s.  Their flagship wine, Penfold’s Grange is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and the noble Shiraz.  It was created many years ago to rival the Bordeaux style and has done quite well throughout its time.  Today it can boast the reputation of one of the most sought after wines in the whole continent.  A great wine that balances the power of the two varietals amazingly.

Other major countries or regions of note for Cabernet Sauvignon are vast, in that it is so widely circulated.  Chile in South America makes some great bottles, as does Spain.  Washington State is better known for its Merlot, but makes some top quality examples as well.  Also, a bit of a curveball, one of my favorite Cabernet Sauvignon based wines comes from Chateau Musar in Lebanon.  Take the opportunity to search out a properly aged Musar and you will not be disappointed.  Or pay for dinner, and I’ll bring one of mine!

      

Merlot

Merlot

Although often overlooked these days by many in the market, Merlot is one of the most important grape varietals on the plant.  It may not have the rugged full bodied appeal like Cabernet Sauvignon, or the lean sexy seduction of a Pinot Noir, Merlot being seen as the safe and easy choice, right in the middle.  The word Merlot itself is French and translates to ‘blackbird,’ not middle like everyone seems to associate with it.  Here is a fun little fact; did you know that it is Merlot that comprises the most expensive current production wines in the world?  Not Pinot Noir, not Cabernet Sauvignon, that’s right Merlot.  It is a grape vine that is fairly early ripening and relatively healthy and so you can find it all throughout the world.  The grape is of medium size with a certain plumpness to it.  Slightly larger than Cabernet Sauvignon, although both grapes have a natural thickness to the skins and Merlot also contains a moderately high level of natural phenolic qualities, the compounds that produce tannins in the skins.  The wines can range in intensity of color, but should have a natural garnet red color that can darken depending on the amount of extraction partaken by the winemaker.  Merlot does best on clay dominant soils intermixed with minerals from limestone to sand and iron rich rock.  For flavors I look to the traditional berry fruits, tending to me more plump and red than the blackness of Cabernet Sauvignon, in the form of ripe cherries and red plums with secondary notes of cool dark earth and tobacco leaves.  One can also find toasted oak and coffee aromas in examples with barrel aging, which his common to do, as well as the herbaceous notes of mint and eucalyptus. 

Let us begin with the true home of Merlot, Bordeaux.  Here Merlot is the most planted grape varietal.  It is often Cabernet Sauvignon that gets all the hype for Bordeaux these days because of the Haut-Medoc, but it is Merlot that is the workhorse and savior in fact for Bordeaux.  You see Merlot ripens earlier than either of the Cabernet varietals, it is the first red varietal to be harvested every year.  Because of this, and the unpredictable weather, Merlot is needed to help ensure that quality wine can be produced every year.  This is why the blends will change every year due to the vintage.  Take a year like 1998.  If you look only at wines from the Haut-Medoc (Left Bank) then you see that the vintage was affected by rain and the wines did not turn out so well.  But if you look to Saint Emilion or Pomerol (Right Bank) you see a much different story.  Because of the earlier ripening Merlot being in near perefect condition and harvested before the rains arrived, you have a classically phenomenal rated vintage.   Take Chateau Le Pin and Chateau Petrus, both from Pomerol.  These are the two wines I eluded to earlier, these are the most expensive wines currently being produced in the world.  They are rare and ultra expensive.

In Italy Merlot is a grape that quietly flies underneath the radar.  But still it is in the top 5 for red varietals as far as planted acreage in all of Italy.  You can find it in the North up into the Dolomites and stretching all the way South to the island of Sicily.  There are some great bottling being made in the North, but it is Tuscany that one should look to really find the impact that merlot is making on Italy.  Tuscany will always be the land of Sangiovese, but in recent years winemakers have adopted to using Merlot most often to blending with the Sangiovese based wines to increase the mouthfeel without overwhelming the freshness and liviliness, which Cabernet Sauvignon would.  Look towards the coast and to Bolgheri and the Maremma.  Again here it is the Cabernet Sauvignon grape that gets much of the hype, the ‘Supertuscan’ phenomenan started with Cabernet based wines continues today with Merlot wines included.  Ornellaia is one of the most famous, but it is their wine labeled Masseto, a 100% Merlot, which is the most sought after cult Supertuscan produced today.  Also the ‘Redigaffi’ from Tua Rita is pure Merlot, and has received a perfect 100 Points before by Wine Spectator. 

In the U.S., we are concerned with two states, California and Washington.  Of course California has a long and fabled history with the likes of Napa and Sonoma valleys, both of which are extremely important locals for the Merlot grape.  Here though it is often overlooked again my wineries in exchange for Cabernet Sauvignon, which also grows well and fetches higher price tags.  Even with this fact mostly true, there are still many good examples of Merlot dominant wines to be found.  And, like in Bordeaux, many winemakers would admit that it is the earlier ripening Merlot which is indeed vital especially in years that are filled with less favorable weather conditions.

In Washington State you have a much different story.  Here is the ‘Right Bank’ to California’s ‘Left Bank’ dominant mindset.  Merlot thrives in the arid lands east of the Cascade Mountain Range.  Yes you can definitely find quality Cabernet Sauvignon and even Syrah wines being grown, but it is Merlot that has truly helped to shape and mold the image of the Washington wine scene.  The vine does well in the moderate climate that is mostly shadowed from heavy rains by the Cascades.  Rich, dense, and complex examples can be found, and at good values still too.