Wine Styles of Bolgheri
The year is 1944, and as one is travelling through what we know today as the Bolgheri region of Northern Maremma they happen upon the Tenuta San Guido Estate. Owned by the Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, through his marriage to Clarice della Gherardesca, it is a beautiful large property spanning many hectares covered with olive groves, wild coastal shrubs, horses from the famous stable, and of course grapevines. Walking through the vineyards Mario points out a newly planted patch that, to the trained Tuscan eye, seems out of place. This is not your traditional Sangiovese, but Cabernet Sauvignon. And so with this small vineyard the dream is born, one that would develop in secret to many for over 20 years until 1968. It was in this year that the Tenuta San Guido Estate and Mario Incisa della Rocchetta would release a wine to the public that would change the face of Tuscan wines forever-Sassicaia, the first ‘Supertuscan.’
The wines of Bolgheri have been given D.O.C. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) status from 1994, including the sub-appellation Bolgheri-Sassicaia D.O.C. for the Tenuta San Guido estate, the birthplace of ‘Supertuscan’ wines. The D.O.C. status deems that wines from this area, defined as the commune of Castagneto Carducci, are of a high level of quality and adhere to specific restrictions both in the vineyard and in the cellar. This is a coastal region due West from Siena in the Livorno Province, who’s climate is warm but also largely affected by the maritime influence. Here the soil is more sand-clay dominant intermixed with many pebble size rocks, which is much more preferred for varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, both of which are heavily planted throughout the area. The name Sassicaia does after all mean “the place of many stones.” In general, the region is most well known for its’ Bordeaux-style blends, which is in reference to the ‘Supertuscan’ label given. Unlike most of Italy where Sangiovese is the king of the red wines, here it is not so, the climate does not suite it so well. There are those that do adhere to tradition though, and you will find Sangiovese planted and blended into certain ‘Supertuscans.’ In addition, Syrah and Alicante (aka Grenache) are two grapes to look for, as there are beginning to be some high quality bottlings on the market. As for the white wines of Bolgheri, there is some definite growth of quality here as well. The two most interesting varietals emerging are Vermentino and Sauvignon (Blanc). The former is a late ripening grape that due to its genetics does quite well in the warmer climates of the Bolgheri coastline, and there are many high quality examples of that available. As for the Sauvignon, they take on a life all their own, some staying fresh and light while others can be a bit more full bodied and robust, it will all depend on the producer and house style here. Highly expressive in both cases, they are worth checking out as well. Other major grapes include Chardonnay because of its’ international acclaim, as well as Viognier. Trebbiano and Malvasia are also found, mainly being used in the production of the famous Tuscan dessert wine Vin Santo.
Bolgheri Sassicaia D.O.C.
Tenuta San Guido single estate sub-appellation.
Cabernet Sauvignon minimum 80%, other authorized red varietals maximum 20%. Must be aged for at least 18 months 225 L barrique and minimum 6 months in the bottle before release
Bolgheri Superiore D.O.C.
Rosso: Cabernet Sauvignon 10%-80%, Merlot maximum 70%, Sangiovese maximum 70%, other authorized red varietals maximum 30%. (Single varietal bottlings do not qualify for the D.O.C.) Rosso Superiore must be aged a minimum of 2 years, with a minimum of 6 months in the bottle before release.
Bolgheri Vermentino D.O.C.
Minimum 85% Vermentino, a maximum of 15% of other authorized white varietals.
Bolgheri Sauvignon (Blanc) D.O.C.
Minimum 85% Sauvignon (Blanc), a maximum of 15% of other authorized white varietals.
Bolgheri Bianco D.O.C.
Trebbiano Toscano 10%-70%, Vermentino 10%-70%, Sauvignon (Blanc) 10%-70%, a maximum of 30% other authorized white varietals.
Bolgheri Rosato D.O.C.
Cabernet Sauvignon 10%-80%, Merlot maximum 70%, Sangiovese maximum 70%, other authorized red varietals maximum 30%.
Bolgheri Vin Santo Occhio di Penice D.O.C.
Sangiovese 50%-70%, Malvasia Nera 30%-50%, maximum 30% of other authorized red varietals. Minimum 3 years of aging (4 years for Riservas) in wood barrels no larger than 5 hL.
Maremma Toscana I.G.T.
This is a catch all classification for wines of quality that do not as of yet meet the restrictions of D.O.C. and D.O.C.G. wines. These are wine categories that often with time and recognition grow into these wines as quality is achieved. In many cases these wines are better in flavor and are higher in quality because the winemaker can try new blends and use new ideas, like new small French barrique to age their wines for example. Remember that the famous wine Sassicaia, the first ‘super-Tuscan,’ was originally labeled a Vino da Tavola, or table wine, before it was granted its own D.O.C. So remember that a higher classification level does not guarantee a better bottle, as many Maremma Toscana I.G.T. wines will show.
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