Wine Styles of the Maremma
When most people think of Tuscan wine one word comes to the front of everyone’s mind-Chianti. And while this is indeed the most well known of the regions of Tuscany there is a lot to know and explore beyond just Chianti. The Brunello wines of Montalcino, the Nobile wines of Montepulciano, and of course the various wines styles of the Southern part of Tuscany, the Maremma. It has often been common in the past to think of this area as the land between Rome and Florence/Siena, but there is a lot going on here, trust me. Based in the commune and around the major city of Grosseto, there are 3 major wine areas to discuss. They are commonly referred to together as the Mo-Mo-Mo wine group. This stands for Morellino-Monteregio-Montecucco. All three have in fact become very big players in the Tuscan wine game, and will be showing up a lot more in the next few years on store shelves and restaurant menus as they are recognized for being great value wines of high quality. Also there are the white wines of the region which are achieving much higher quality levels and are very exciting varietals as well.
An important aspect of this region to note is the difference in its climate compared to the other major regions in Tuscany. Often nicknamed the ‘California of Italy’ you have very warm summers that are cooled by the ocean breezes which created a perfect environment for the ripening of quality wine grapes. Within the commune there are differences in the soils which also give different profiles to each of the Mo-Mo-Mo wines. Maybe you have not yet experienced one of these wines, but once one does they understand why they are the hidden gem of the Tuscan region…for now that is.
Morellino di Scansano D.O.C.G.
A D.O.C.G. all the way down here in Tuscany, that is right. Granted D.O.C. in 1978 and elevated to D.O.C.G. in 2006 (November 29) the region is centered round the city of Scansano to the Southeast of Grosseto. Morellino is the regional name for Sangiovese which is the majority grape in the Morellino blend, at a minimum of 85%. Other authorized grapes can be used up to 15%; the common varietals are Ciliegiolo (an indigenous varietal closely related to Sangiovese), Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon. If the wine is aged for at least 2 years from January 1st following the harvest year, including at least 1 year in oak barrels, then the wine can be labeled with the Riserva title. The common soil in the Scansano D.O.C.G. is comprised with more sand than Monteregio or Montecucco, giving the wine a more delicate perfumed character with a lighter overall body structure. At the same time the climate is much further south and the grapes achieve a higher level of ripeness giving more fruity flavors to these wines.
Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C.
Whereas the Morellino di Scansano region covers the Southern end of the Maremma commune, Monteregio di Massa Marittima is the major wine region in the North of Maremma. It can almost be thought of as the Southern extension of Bolgheri as many producers are having great success with the international varietals under the Maremma Toscana I.G.T. designation. Here though, again, Sangiovese is king. Granted in 1994 the D.O.C. status, wines bearing this designation much be at minimum 80% Sangiovese, with maximum 20% of other permitted varietals of which no more than 10% of any single varietal. For example a common blend is 80% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, and 10% Ciliegiolo. This of course is an example and not the set in stone formula. Wines that are aged at least 2 years, including 6 months in oak barrels and 3 months in bottle, can bear the label of Riserva. The climate is quite coastal here, but many of the vineyards are located on the hills achieving some elevation. The soils here are much more clay and iron rich with many minerals which give the wines a darker strong effect to them compared to Morellino wines.
White wines are also able to carry the Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C. label. There are 2 ways to achieve this, either as a base Bianco blend (Trebbiano minimum 50%, Vermentino, Ansonica, and/or Malvasia maximum 30%, and other authorized varietals maximum 30%). Much more common and often more interesting are the Monteregio Vermentino wines though. To carry this label the wine must be a minimum 90% of Vermentino. The famous dessert wine of Tuscany, Vin Santo, is also allowed to carry the Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C.
Montecucco D.O.C.
The new kid on the block as it is the last of the Mo-Mo-Mo wines to achieve its elevated status in 1998. This region is gaining much popularity though as it is considered by many to be similar to the famed Montalcino region for climate and soil. The region stretches the Eastern center of the Maremma and does border up next to Montalcino in fact. Because the D.O.C. region is a new one not many people know of these wines outside of the Maremma and Tuscany, but this will definitely change in the upcoming years as many consumers look for the best values on the market. The blend is still Sangiovese dominant, but at only 60% minimum required winemakers have more flexibility in the direction these wines can take. Other authorized grapes like Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon are common and cannot exceed a maximum of 40% combined. The region shares many similarities in soil with Montalcino, mineral rich soils perfect for obtaining complex flavors in the wines. Also because it is off the coast a bit the grapes have a slightly warmer climate benefiting the grapes with higher levels of ripeness. The blend of a specific Montecucco will greatly shape its flavors, but like the Monteregio wines, look for a well structured wine bigger in body than the Morellino wines. If a producer creates a wine that is minimum 85% Sangiovese with the rest of the wine being comprised of authorized grapes then the wine can bear the varietal label of Montecucco Sangiovese D.O.C. No Rosso Montecucco D.O.C. can be released to the market before April 1 following the harvest year, and Riserva wines must wait 2 years minimum following harvest (18 months minimum in oak barrel).
Here, like in the Monteregio D.O.C., white wines are able to carry the Montecucco D.O.C. title. In the same manner you have the base Bianco label, Trebbiano 60% minimum, and the Vermentino varietal label. Vermentino wines must be a minimum of 85% to carry the D.O.C. title. As of this time no Vin Santo is granted to the Montecucco D.O.C. region.
Maremma Toscana I.G.T.
This is a catch all classification for wines of quality that do not as of yet meet the restrictions of D.O.C. and D.O.C.G. wines. These are wine categories that often with time and recognition grow into these wines as quality is achieved. In many cases these wines are better in flavor and are higher in quality because the winemaker can try new blends and use new ideas, like new small French barrique to age their wines for example. Remember that the famous wine Sassicaia, the first ‘super-Tuscan,’ was originally labeled a Vino da Tavola, or table wine, before it was granted its own D.O.C. So remember that a higher classification level does not guarantee a better bottle, as many Maremma Toscana I.G.T. wines will show.
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