Saturday, January 15, 2011

Vernaccia

Vernaccia
Picture of San Gimignano, Tuscany, Italy - Free Pictures - FreeFoto.com
Relatively speaking, Vernaccia (coming from the Latin word for ‘indigenous’) is the most important white grape in Tuscany.  I say relatively because it has a long history and has been a wine recognized by the international market for some time.  The vines are of native origin, and can be found all throughout Italy, but the most important of all the Vernaccia types are the vines around the medieval castle town of San Gimignano.  Vernaccia di San Gimignano was the 1st D.O.C. region granted status in 1966.  It later was elevated to D.O.C.G. status in 1993.  Its history is recorded in city records going back to the 13th Century, thus the importance in more recent times with the D.O.C.G. status.  Unfortunately, the story of Vernaccia di San Gimignano has a dark age, much in the same style as Chianti.  As a way for Italians to increase exports and make more profits, much of these wines that were distributed during the 1970’s and 1980’s were of very low quality and for the most part indistinguishable as anything more than a light white wine.  The movement of late has been changing this, and there is much improvement, but one must understand that this is a light white wine true and true.  For one that enjoys the robust flavors of a barrique fermented Chardonnay, Vernaccia may fall short on the palate.  The grape is naturally light in aromas and flavors, with a soft florality and tinges of bitter almond on the finish.  To increase its appeal to the international market many producers have begun to increase grapes into the blends of this wine that are fuller in body and higher in aromatic complexities, like Chardonnay and Viognier.  Because of this though, many producers are having to declassify their wines to Toscana Bianco I.G.T. wines, much the same phenomenon as the ‘Supertuscan’ trend with reds in the 1970’s and 1980’s.  Still, it is highly recommended to try both styles and decide for yourself which style is more preferred.

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